Men, there’s more to life than a quarter zip – here’s what to wear instead

 As we stare longingly at summer in the rearview mirror and begrudgingly retire our warm-weather favourites to the back of the wardrobe, it’s understandable to feel a touch blue. But if there’s one thing better than finally breaking out our linens when the sun appears – it’s welcoming in “sweater season” as the nights close in. Let’s be honest, menswear is better in the colder months anyway. Give us a crisp autumnal morning, a coat and jumper, and we’re in our element. But not all sweaters are built equally and knowing what to wear and when is crucial. Read on to make sure you’re fully prepared for the season ahead.

Refined regulars that feel expensive

Treating ourselves to the finer things is a privilege, and getting decent knitwear needn’t mean taking out a second mortgage. “I always go for something that feels soft and has a bit of volume”, explains Frances Walker, knitwear designer. “Always natural fibres, as I like to feel what the yarn is naturally, so if it’s alpaca I want it to be soft.”

Sage advice as ensuring you get decent fabrics is one of the most important factors when buying a new sweater. “I love cashmere to be plied up, rather than single ply, with lots of ends to it, so when it’s thicker it makes for a chunkier knit”, continues Walker.

Cashmere has never been so popular with both the high street and luxury brands offering their own versions, so why can prices vary so wildly? Like the difference between fine wine and supermarket plonk, it largely depends on the quality of the core materials (goats’ undercoats, in this instance and not grapes) and manufacturing processes. However, don’t be put off by less expensive versions. “I’m a massive fan of Uniqlo and Arket,” praises Walker. “They repeat really good shapes, and it always fits well. They’re able to keep the cost down as they buy a lot of them, but the quality of them is great”.

Sofa style in front of the fire

So, you’ve clocked off for the day and it’s time to relax. What’s your go-to outfit? “At the weekends, I have a chocolate brown, shawl collared cardigan, that when worn over a T-shirt, feels like putting on your snuggest dressing gown,” reminisces Oliver Spencer, founder and designer of his eponymous label Oliver Spencer. “Right now, I’m totally in love with a sweater made of Alpaca and merino. Its thermal abilities are fantastic, so it’s warm, and it’s super lightweight – it also carries colour super well in a way that is so rich and dense,” Spencer continues.

Looking after these treasured pieces needn’t be a headache or a costly dry-cleaning bill. Due to its lanolin content, wool is self-cleaning and repels dirt and inhibits bacteria. But every now and then, we’ll spill something down us so knowing what to do is important. “I do hand wash my knitwear”, says Walker, “but I also put them on a wool wash in my washing machine on a very slow setting, so it doesn’t spin them too much. Then I lie them on a flat surface to dry.” Once they are back to their best, it’s time to store them correctly. “I don’t hang my knitwear, I fold it, and I also use moth prevention like putting them in zip bags that helps deter those pesky things.” Disclaimer alert, always read care labels and no insects were hurt in the writing of this article.

Statement swag for festive parties

Texture and colour, specifically in knitwear, are a major element in dressing well and are often overlooked by many men. Whilst you may want to still play safe with your bottom half, opting for classic colours like navy and black for trousers, choosing a colour that suits your complexion is a great way of expressing yourself and knitwear is the best vehicle for this. “Pop colours were a trend that started to come to the fore in AW25 and continued through into the SS26 collections” says Todd.

For the more adventurous among you, have a think about more creative applications, such as degredé, jacquard and intarsia knits. Recently we have seen a folky and handcrafted trend within menswear that harks back to a time when one’s nan would make and fix their own garments, creating unique and characterful looking pieces; see the riotous jumpers of Noel Fielding on The Great British Bake Off as prime example. “Bode are always one of the standouts when it comes to statement knit”, suggests Todd, “and they’re a great way of buying into the key themes and trends of the season.”

Work-ready knits

For those whose profession requires looking smart, a well-gauged knit can be both comfortable professional. Enter the half-zip, funnel neck sweater. The perfect piece to wear over a shirt and tie, or T-shirt, that glides under a suit jacket (or gilet if you’re channelling Succession vibes).

“They are really a luxe update on the traditional fleece that was prevalent across global finance districts”, cites Daniel Todd, buying director at Mr Porter. “Personally, I would keep the colour palette neutral to compliment tailored trousers but add a point of interest through the texture – opt for something in cashmere or silk or a heavier rib versus the classic fine knit, for example.”

If you want to ditch the shirt and tie combo altogether, and Succession’s Kendall Roy doesn’t do it for you, take inspiration from Michael Fassbender’s Black Bag character George Woodhouse and slip into a fine gauge roll neck under your blazer. Always opt for natural fibres though, such as merino wool or cashmere, as they wick sweat and keep you warm and dry. Heavy black rimmed spectacles and menacing persona are optional.

A couple of years ago, the phenomenon of the “Tory knit” started trending on Twitter – now X – thanks to then-PM Rishi Sunak’s fondness for the quarter-zip. It was so called as it allows for a shirt collar to be seen beneath it, lending a touch of formality. It’s less slouchy and denotes a certain “uprightness”. If you’re tempted, opt for ones with a bit of roominess to allow space for the shirt underneath.

Weekend warmers for country walks

When it’s time to walk off the Sunday roast, picking a jumper that will keep you warm (and offer a bit of stretch to accommodate any excess consumption) is a must. Whilst we’re not quite in the depths of winter just yet, there are plenty of options that will work well under a lightweight jacket or knits that do the job just as well on their own. “I live half the year on the Sussex coast and other half in the Normandy sticks and spend a good two hours a day walking my pooch Peg”, Matt Barr, founder of All Conditions Media agency and host of Looking Sideways podcast, tells me over a crackly telephone line. “I often find myself reaching for my trusty decade-old Finisterre Polperro fisherman’s jumper as it works on its own, under a technical shell jacket but especially in front of a cosy fire in the pub. It gets better with each passing year.”